10004 Quarry Hill Place

• 1.Move all furniture out of the rooms being floored (or shift to one side and do half at a time)
• 2.Rip up all carpet + carpet pad + tack strips. Remove the dark cherry hardwood in the kitchen (pry bar + hammer for nail-down, or pry up glue-down). Pull staples from subfloor. Dumpster everything
• 3.Inspect the subfloor — look for squeaks (screw down loose spots), low spots (fill with leveling compound), and high spots (sand down). Subfloor needs to be flat within 3/16" over 10 feet
• 4.Clean subfloor thoroughly — sweep and vacuum. LVP needs a clean, flat surface
• 5.Undercut door frames with an oscillating multi-tool or jamb saw so planks slide under (cleaner than cutting around them)

This is the most labor-intensive weekend. Carpet tear-out is easy; hardwood removal is more work (pry bar, hammer, patience). Budget a full weekend with the dumpster in the driveway.

• ▸Great starter room — smaller, more contained, builds confidence
• ▸Start from the wall furthest from the main traffic flow, work toward the opening to the living area
• ▸Use 1/4" spacers against walls for expansion gap
• ▸Don't end the rows at the room boundary — let the last row extend into the opening toward the living area. You'll pick up from there next weekend
• ▸Install transition strip at the library/office doorway (12'7" × 11'10") — only transition on the whole floor

• ▸Largest room — but you've got your technique down from the dining room now
• ▸Continue rows from where the dining room left off so everything is seamless
• ▸The fireplace wall will need careful cuts — measure twice
• ▸Stagger end joints by at least 6" between rows for stability and a natural wood look
• ▸This is a full Saturday — might spill into Sunday

• ▸Kitchen is the trickiest — cuts around island, cabinets, appliances, and the sink plumbing
• ▸Dark cherry hardwood is already gone (Weekend 0) — subfloor should be prepped and ready
• ▸Remove base shoe molding (not baseboards — just the quarter-round). Reinstall after to cover expansion gap
• ▸Nook flows naturally from kitchen — continuous, no transition
• ▸Entry/hallway connects everything — do this last as it ties all the rooms together

• ▸Small rooms — quick install once you've got 3 weekends of experience
• ▸Mudroom connects off the kitchen/nook — run planks continuously from there through the garage entry. Snow and mud from the garage hits waterproof LVP instead of anything that can swell
• ▸Bathroom — remove existing tile or vinyl. LVP is 100% waterproof so it handles a bathroom perfectly. Run the planks right in from the hallway for a seamless look
• ▸Bathroom cuts around the toilet base and vanity require patience — use a contour gauge or cardboard template to trace, then cut with a jigsaw or utility knife
• ▸Apply silicone caulk where LVP meets the toilet base and tub/shower to prevent water from getting under the planks

• ▸Install transition strip at library/office doorway — the only transition on the entire floor
• ▸Reinstall or replace baseboards / quarter-round shoe molding to cover expansion gaps
• ▸Caulk baseboards if needed
• ▸Move furniture back in — use felt pads on all furniture legs to protect the new floor
• ▸Add entry mats at the nook door (deck), front entry, and garage/mudroom entry to catch snow/water